
Walking guide
Walking and Trekking in Iceland
Paddy Dillon · 2015
Cicerone routes incl. the Fimmvörðuháls trek from Skógafoss, Skaftafell walks to Svartifoss and the Jökulsárgljúfur canyon by Dettifoss.
Iceland · Vatnajökull National Park
A 20-metre thread of water dropping through an amphitheatre of black basalt columns above Skaftafell — the centrepiece of a short waterfall hike under Vatnajökull, with glacier walks next door and the icebergs of Jökulsárlón 45 minutes east.
Full guide Checked September 2026 by David Bussell · 41 sources UNESCO World Heritage
Svartifoss, the Black Falls, is not big — about 20 metres of the Stórilækur stream falling in a single drop — but nowhere else in Iceland frames a waterfall like this. The water pours over an overhang of dark, strikingly regular basalt columns that hang from the lip like organ pipes and stand below it like a half-circle of broken fence posts. The park dates the columns to lava that flowed down Skaftafellsheiði and filled an old riverbed about 300,000 years ago, then cracked into prisms as it slowly cooled.
You reach it on foot. The trail leaves the Skaftafellsstofa visitor centre, runs 250 metres through the campsite, then climbs through birch woodland to a viewpoint above the falls — 1.5 km and 140 metres of ascent, roughly 45 minutes each way. On the way up you pass two smaller falls in the same ravine, Magnúsarfoss and Hundafoss. From the viewpoint the path drops into the gorge and crosses a footbridge in front of the columns, and you can loop back via the Sjónarsker lookout and the old Sel turf farm.
Skaftafell is the obvious base for the whole southeast. Falljökull and Svínafellsjökull, outlet glaciers of Vatnajökull, end a few kilometres from the car park, and guided walks on them run all year. From October to April the same guides lead trips into natural blue-ice caves. Drive 45 minutes east and Jökulsárlón's lagoon fills with icebergs calving off Breiðamerkurjökull; across the road they wash up as clear chunks on the black sand of Diamond Beach, and quieter Fjallsárlón sits ten kilometres west.
Skaftafellsstofa visitor centre, Road 998 off Route 1
The green, wooded side of Vatnajökull: a campsite and visitor centre on a bench of land between two glacier tongues, with marked trails fanning up the hill behind. Svartifoss is the headline, but the easy S2 loop strings it together with Hundafoss, Magnúsarfoss, the Sjónarsker lookout and the 1912 turf farm at Sel. Walk the flat 4.1 km glacier trail to Skaftafellsjökull in an hour or so, and every guided glacier walk and winter ice-cave trip in the area meets here or at nearby Freysnes.
Breiðamerkursandur, Route 1 — ~57 km east of Skaftafell
A glacier lagoon that only began forming in the 1930s as Breiðamerkurjökull retreated, now crowded with icebergs that drift towards the short river under the Route 1 bridge and out to sea. Amphibian boats and Zodiacs run among the ice from May, a café stays open almost all year, and in winter the lagoon is the meeting point for most ice-cave tours. Across the road on Fellsfjara — Diamond Beach — the same ice washes up on black sand; seals gather where the river meets the sea.
Breiðamerkursandur, Route 1 — ~10 km west of Jökulsárlón
A smaller glacier lagoon at the foot of Fjallsjökull where the ice front is closer and the crowds thinner. A short, sometimes rough 1.5 km loop from behind the Frost restaurant climbs to a viewpoint over Hrútárjökull, Fjallsjökull and the lagoon, then drops to the shore. Boat trips run from April to November, and a 15 km trail, Breiðármörk, links Fjallsárlón to Jökulsárlón for anyone who wants to walk between the two.
Do both in the same day — they are 45 minutes apart on the Ring Road, and the park halves the second parking fee. Give Skaftafell the morning for Svartifoss and a glacier walk, then reach Jökulsárlón and Diamond Beach in the softer afternoon light, stopping at Fjallsárlón on the way.
June to August for midnight-sun hiking and every boat running; September for colour, fewer people and returning aurora; November to March if the ice caves are the point.
The trails and lagoons are open all year; the season decides what's underneath and overhead. Summer brings midnight sun and every boat running, while the park only permits ice-cave tours from October to April.
Near-endless daylight, so you can walk to Svartifoss at 22:00 and have it largely to yourself. Every Jökulsárlón boat is running — amphibians every half hour or so at peak — Fjallsárlón's boats and the Jökulsárlón kayaks are on the water, and the glacier walks run their longest versions. It's also the busiest season in Skaftafell: the campsite fills, and the Svartifoss path is steady with walkers from mid-morning.
Crowds thin, the birch on Skaftafellsheiði turns in September, and dark nights bring the aurora back from late August. Zodiacs run into October and the amphibians into November. Ice-cave season opens in October, when temperatures allow. Weather swings fast and the upper trails can take early snow, so carry layers even for the short Svartifoss walk.
The season for the natural blue-ice caves under Vatnajökull, reached only with licensed guides from Skaftafell, Freysnes or Jökulsárlón. Svartifoss stays reachable, but the park warns the path can be very slippery or snow-covered, and midwinter light lasts only a few hours. In exchange you get quiet trails, snow on the columns, and some of Iceland's darkest aurora skies.
Hótel Skaftafell sums up the local calendar: after mid-August the northern lights return, in September the birch turns, and as it gets colder the glaciers turn a deeper blue. A clear late-September evening can give you autumn colour at Svartifoss, blue ice on a glacier walk and an aurora over Jökulsárlón in a single day — before ice-cave season and the shortest days arrive.
Prices are 2025/2026 advertised rates in ISK or USD from the national park, operator and hotel sites, converted to USD at roughly 121 ISK/USD; they move with season, group size and exchange rates and should be treated as a planning guide rather than a quote.
The trail leaves the visitor centre through the campsite and climbs steadily on compacted soil, mats and wooden steps, passing Magnúsarfoss and Hundafoss in the ravine below before reaching a viewpoint above Svartifoss — 1.5 km and 140 metres of ascent. Drop into the gorge and cross the footbridge for the classic view up at the columns, then either return the same way or climb the column steps opposite and loop back via the Sjónarsker lookout and the Sel turf farm.
Year-round; slippery or snow-covered in winter
No booking needed.
The park's own pick for the best view in Skaftafell: from the Svartifoss viewpoint a signed path climbs east to Sjónarnípa, a lookout that hangs over the crevassed tongue of Skaftafellsjökull with Kristínartindar, Hrútfjallstindar and Öræfajökull behind. The park rates it challenging for the climb, not for exposure. In spring and early summer the heath is busy with nesting birds, so keep to the path. It normally returns via Austurbrekkur, which is shut for maintenance through 30 September 2026.
Best May – October; the Austurbrekkur return leg is closed 1–30 September 2026
No booking needed.
The easy counterpart to Svartifoss: a flat trail from the east side of the visitor centre, paved for half its length and gravel beyond, that ends near the snout of Skaftafellsjökull. Numbered markers tie into the park's Melting Glaciers interpretation — end moraines, kettle holes, trimlines — so you're reading the glacier's retreat as you walk. You can go closer to the ice at the end, but the park asks you to follow the warning sign there. Don't step onto the glacier without a guide.
Year-round
No booking needed.
The reason most people stay at Skaftafell. You meet at the operators' huts by the visitor centre or at Hof, ride a few minutes to the ice, strap on crampons and walk up an outlet glacier of Vatnajökull past ridges, moulins and ash-banded crevasses. Harness, helmet and ice axe are supplied; bring warm layers and sturdy boots. Which tongue you walk depends on conditions that day — Glacier Guides uses Falljökull or Svínafellsjökull.
Year-round
For people who want more than a walk: a longer hike higher up Falljökull, then a session top-roping up a wall of blue ice with ice axes and front-point crampons, belayed by the guide. No climbing experience is needed, but you need reasonable fitness and arms that can take a few tries. Glacier Guides' day runs about seven hours; Local Guide's summer version is four hours from Freysnes.
Year-round (Glacier Guides); June – September (Local Guide)
Doing this one? Check your travel insurance covers adventure activities before you go — SafetyWing is one option.
Every winter meltwater carves new tunnels through the snouts of Vatnajökull's outlet glaciers, and for a few months the ice is cold and stable enough to walk inside them — blue, ribbed, sometimes striped with ash. The caves change every season, so the operator picks each day's cave after a safety check; a trip can move or cancel on the morning. Helmets, crampons and headlamps are supplied. Read the ice-cave note below before booking.
October – April only; caves are closed May – September
Doing this one? Check your travel insurance covers adventure activities before you go — SafetyWing is one option.
The classic way onto the lagoon: an amphibious boat that drives down the shore, floats out among the icebergs and loops past ice that has broken off Breiðamerkurjökull, with a guide explaining the glacier's retreat. The company runs four boats, departing about every half hour in summer. Somewhere mid-lagoon the guide usually fishes out a chunk for you to taste — ice they describe as around a thousand years old. Book ahead in July and August.
May – November
The faster, closer version: an inflatable Zodiac that covers much more of the lagoon than the amphibians and, when conditions allow, heads almost up to the calving face of Breiðamerkurjökull. Dress for the cold even in July: the lagoon is full of ice and the wind comes straight off the glacier. It's the better choice if you want the glacier front rather than just the icebergs; there are around ten departures a day in high season.
May – October
A smaller lagoon and a closer glacier: boats leave from the Fjallsárlón car park, 10 km west of Jökulsárlón, and head across to the face of Fjallsjökull, where ice breaks off straight into the water. It's generally quieter than the big lagoon, and the Frost restaurant by the car park is a warm place to wait out the weather. The same company sells a summer glacier-hike-and-boat combination and a winter ice-cave trip.
April – November
Paddle among the icebergs at water level in stable sit-on kayaks, with a guide keeping the group away from ice that might roll. It's slower and quieter than the boats, and you get closer to the small, glassy bergs than any amphibian will take you. Troll pairs it with its Skaftafell glacier hike as a same-day combination — the neatest way to do ice and water in one day.
Summer
Across Route 1 from Jökulsárlón, icebergs that have drifted out of the lagoon wash back onto black sand, from clear lumps like cut glass to blocks the size of cars. Car parks sit on both sides of the river; use the path under the bridge rather than walking over it. The park notes large seal colonies where the rivers meet the sea, so watch the river mouth. Come at sunrise or sunset for light through the ice, and keep well back from the surf.
Year-round
No booking needed.
Two stops that explain how people lived here. Sel, on the Svartifoss loop, is a turf farmhouse built in 1912 with the cow barn downstairs and the living quarters above to catch the animals' warmth; farming stopped in 1946. Below Magnúsarfoss in Vestragil, two self-taught electricians built a tiny 3.45 kW hydro station in 1925 that powered the local farms until 1973; it was rebuilt in 2001–2003 and is open to visitors.
Year-round
No booking needed.
In August 2024 a US visitor died when part of an ice cave collapsed on Breiðamerkurjökull during a summer tour. Tours were suspended, and the park tightened the rules: operators must hold park contracts, a lead guide joins daily joint risk assessments of each cave, any cave judged unsafe is avoided that day, and each guide may lead only 8–16 guests. The caves are now closed from May to September. Treat any 'summer ice cave' offer with suspicion, never enter one without a licensed guide, and expect last-minute changes.
Beds in Öræfi are few and fill early in summer, so book ahead — staying within 30 minutes of Skaftafell puts you on the Svartifoss trail before the day traffic arrives from Vík.
A family-run hotel at Freysnes, the closest hotel beds to the Svartifoss trailhead. It shares its hamlet with the Freysnes service station, where Local Guide of Vatnajökull meets for its summer glacier walks, so you can walk out of breakfast and onto a tour.
A four-star-superior, 125-room Íslandshótel property under Hvannadalshnúkur, with a 180-seat restaurant, gym, and complimentary hot tubs and sauna. Mountain or ocean views and little light pollution make it a strong aurora base, placed between both halves of this guide.
A 45-room country hotel spread over an old barn, a schoolhouse and cottages, with breakfast included and a bistro serving local produce at dinner. Next door is Hofskirkja, a turf church; Troll Expeditions' Skaftafell glacier hikes meet at Hof.
Open all year with room for about 400 tents across eight pitches, showers, washer and dryer included, and 1,500 ISK electricity. No reservations — register at reception on arrival. Only zones A and C stay open in winter, and there are no cooking facilities.
A farm hotel that sells itself on inexpensive, comfortable rooms and a restaurant serving farm-raised lamb and Arctic char. The Þórbergur centre on site is dedicated to the writer Þórbergur Þórðarson, who grew up on the farm. A good base for sunrise at Diamond Beach.
A Ring Road hotel a short drive from the lagoon and Diamond Beach, with doubles, triples and family suites, a second-floor restaurant with glacier views, and complimentary outdoor hot tubs and sauna for guests. About an hour's drive from Höfn airport.
Search all Skaftafell, Iceland accommodation
Iceland's only major international gateway, about 365 km / 5 hours from Skaftafell by road via Reykjavík and Route 1. Direct flights from North America and across Europe on Icelandair, Play and seasonal carriers.
A small domestic airport at Höfn, roughly 120 km / 1.5–2 hours east of Skaftafell and about an hour from Jökulsárlón. Flights connect with Reykjavík's domestic airport; you'll need a hire car or the Strætó bus from there.
Keflavík is the realistic way in; from there it's a full day's drive east along the South Coast via Selfoss, Vík and Kirkjubæjarklaustur, and most people break it with a night near Skógafoss or Vík.
Route 1 is paved all the way and kept open in winter, but the long, exposed crossing of Skeiðarársandur west of Skaftafell and the stretch past the lagoons take the brunt of storms; check road.is and safetravel.is before every winter drive. Without a car, Strætó route 52 (Reykjavík–Höfn) runs Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Sunday and stops at Skaftafell, Freysnes and Jökulsárlón: 13,200 ISK (~$109) from Mjódd to Skaftafell, 15,000 ISK (~$124) to Jökulsárlón. Drivers pay the park's regional fee by number-plate camera at Skaftafell and Jökulsárlón — pay online through Parka or at the car-park machines.
EES and ETIAS timelines have shifted several times through 2025–2026 and are likely to shift again; check the EU's official ETIAS site or your carrier shortly before you fly rather than relying on this guide's date.
This waterfall
Svartifoss
Iceland
Height20 mWidth—
Most similar
Aira Force
United Kingdom
Height20 mWidth—
Also a plunge waterfall, of similar height and in the United Kingdom
Largest curtain
Victoria Falls
Zimbabwe · Zambia
Height108 mWidth1,708 m
Largest single sheet of falling water
Tallest on earth
Angel Falls
Venezuela
Height979 mWidth—
Widest on earth
Khone Phapheng Falls
Laos
Height21 mWidth10,783 m
Measured across the whole multi-channel system
Angel Falls is 49× taller than Svartifoss. Victoria Falls is 5.4× taller. We don't have a reliable crest width for Svartifoss yet, so it is left off the width chart. Tallest · widest lists.
5:52
4:27
16:52
Chosen from YouTube; videos belong to their creators and play from YouTube's privacy-enhanced player.

Walking guide
Paddy Dillon · 2015
Cicerone routes incl. the Fimmvörðuháls trek from Skógafoss, Skaftafell walks to Svartifoss and the Jökulsárgljúfur canyon by Dettifoss.
Guidebook
Lonely Planet · 2026
Newest Lonely Planet edition: Ring Road planning, road and weather advice, and practical detail for every major Icelandic waterfall.
Guidebook
Rough Guides · 2025
Current Rough Guide with region-by-region coverage of the south coast, Mývatn area, Snæfellsnes and Vatnajökull.

Guidebook
DK Eyewitness · 2024
Map-heavy illustrated guide, handy for picturing the Golden Circle and south-coast falls before you drive them.
About 1.5 km each way from the Skaftafell visitor centre, with 140 metres of climbing to the viewpoint above the falls — allow roughly 45 minutes up and a bit less down. The park's full loop, taking in Hundafoss, Magnúsarfoss, the Sjónarsker lookout and the Sel turf farm, is 5.8 km and about two hours. The park rates it easy but notes the steady climb.
The waterfall and trail are free, but parking isn't. Vatnajökull National Park charges a regional fee of 1,110 ISK (~$9) per car at Skaftafell, collected by number-plate camera and valid until midnight. The same fee applies at Jökulsárlón, at half price if you've already paid at Skaftafell that day. Pay online through Parka or at the car-park machines.
Skaftafell is about 325 km from Reykjavík on Route 1 — roughly four and a half hours without stops, and more like a full day with the South Coast sights on the way. Jökulsárlón is about 57 km further east, 45–50 minutes, and Vík is about two hours west. Most people stay at least one night nearby rather than doing it as a day trip.
Iceland's basalt columns inspired the architect Guðjón Samúelsson, and Svartifoss is the example most often cited for the stepped, column-like concrete of Hallgrímskirkja in Reykjavík and the National Theatre. Sources credit columnar basalt in general, so treat 'modelled on Svartifoss' as popular shorthand rather than documented fact — though under the columns the family resemblance is obvious.
Yes. The trail is open all year, but the park warns it can be very slippery or snow-covered, so wear boots with grip and carry microspikes. Midwinter daylight lasts only a few hours, so start by late morning. Winter is also the only season for Vatnajökull's ice caves, which pair well with Svartifoss from a base at Skaftafell.
No. Since a fatal collapse on Breiðamerkurjökull in August 2024, ice-cave tours in Vatnajökull National Park run only from October to April, with daily safety checks and only licensed operators. In summer, a guided glacier walk from Skaftafell or a Zodiac trip to the face of Breiðamerkurjökull is the closest you'll get to the blue ice.
Diamond Beach is the local nickname for Fellsfjara, the black-sand beach on the far side of Route 1 from Jökulsárlón, where icebergs that have floated out of the lagoon wash up. There are car parks by the beach and by the lagoon; to walk between them, take the path under the bridge, not the road across it.
Not yet. Iceland is in the Schengen Area and most Western passport holders enter visa-free for up to 90 days in any 180-day period. ETIAS, the planned €20 pre-travel authorisation, has been delayed repeatedly through 2026 with no confirmed launch date — check before you fly rather than assuming it's live.
Svartifoss is in Iceland (Southeast Iceland), inside Vatnajökull National Park. The nearest base is Skaftafell and the closest airport is KEF. Its coordinates are 64.0277, -16.9753.
Prices, fees and entry rules change. We re-check full guides regularly; spotted something out of date? Tell us.
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