Guidebook
Ghana
Philip Briggs · 2019
Covers the Volta Region's Wli Falls hikes from Hohoe and the Eastern Region's Boti Falls and Umbrella Rock near Koforidua.
Ghana · Volta Region
The Agumatsa River drops about 80 metres off the Akwapim-Togo range a few kilometres from the Togo border, into a forest sanctuary where fruit bats hang in thousands from the cliffs. The lower fall is a half-hour walk; the upper fall is a proper climb.
Full guide Checked September 2026 by David Bussell · 42 sources
Wli is really two waterfalls on one river. The Agumatsa, whose Ewe name is usually translated as 'allow me to flow', runs off the sandstone and shale scarp of the Akwapim-Togo range, the line of hills that forms the Ghana–Togo border, and falls twice on its way down to the Hohoe plain. The upper fall, about 80 metres, is the one behind the claim that Wli is the tallest waterfall in Ghana and West Africa. The lower fall, around 60 to 65 metres depending on the source, drops into a wide pool at the foot of a cliff amphitheatre whose ledges are hung with a colony of fruit bats.
Everything starts at the visitor centre in Wli Afegame, the village at the end of the road, where you pay the Agumatsa Wildlife Sanctuary fee and are assigned a guide. The lower-falls trail is about 2.2 kilometres of mostly level forest path, with bamboo benches for a rest on the way, and takes 30 to 40 minutes. The upper-falls trail branches off and climbs steeply up the escarpment for a round trip of three to four hours, and needs grippy shoes and some stamina.
Most people come for a day from Hohoe, but Wli is at its best with a night or two in the village. You can swim in the pool under the lower fall, do the upper-falls climb while it's still cool, and come back to the lower fall in the early afternoon, when the lodge owners say the light is best. Liati Wote, about 14 kilometres south, adds Mount Afadja and the forest walk to Tagbo Falls. Tafi Atome's mona monkeys and the Togo border are close enough to build a longer Volta Region trip around, and Boti Falls makes a good stop on the way from Accra.
Visitor centre, Wli Afegame
The walk everyone does. From the visitor centre a guide leads you along a 2.2-kilometre forest trail, mostly level, across the stream on small bridges and past butterfly-heavy clearings, to the base of the lower fall. The water falls into a pool at the foot of a curved cliff, and the ledges above are packed with roosting fruit bats. Bring swimwear: wading or swimming in the pool is the reward for the walk.
Branch trail from the lower-falls path, up the escarpment
The upper fall is the taller one, about 80 metres, and far fewer visitors reach it. The trail leaves the lower-falls path and climbs hard up the escarpment through forest, on steep ground that gets slick after rain. At the top you're close to the Togo border, with a cold pool at the foot of the fall and far fewer people than below. The official site rates it medium with a longer, steeper variant; the Waterfall Lodge describes a hike of about four hours. A guide is required.
Liati Wote village, about 14 km south of Wli
The neighbouring valley has the Volta Region's other classic pair. Mount Afadja, long billed as Ghana's highest peak, is a short, steep guided climb of 45 minutes to an hour to the top, with a view that reaches Lake Volta when the air is clear. From the same village a forest trail of 40 minutes to an hour leads to Tagbo Falls, which ends in a final cascade of about 60 metres. The Liati Wote tourism office at the foot of the mountain sells tickets and arranges guides.
Do the lower falls whatever your fitness: it's short, cheap and gets you the bats and a swim. If you're reasonably fit and here in the morning, add the upper falls, which is the real 80-metre drop and the better hike. With a second day, go to Liati Wote for Afadja and Tagbo rather than doing the Wli trails twice.
August to October gives full falls with a little less rain than the main wet season; November is the pick for dry trails before the Harmattan haze arrives.
Wli is fed by rain, so what matters is the wet season, roughly April or May to October, when the falls are full and the upper trail is at its most slippery, against the dry, hazy Harmattan months when the flow drops.
The falls fill quickly once the rains set in, and the forest is at its greenest. The cost is the trails: the upper-falls climb is steep and muddy, and guides may advise against it after heavy rain. Roads to Hohoe are slower in downpours. The lower falls are fine throughout, and the pool is at its most dramatic, though swimming right under the fall is best judged with your guide when the water is high.
The best compromise for most visitors. The river has had months of rain behind it, so both falls run full, and Tagbo, which shrinks in the dry season, is at its best too. Southern Ghana usually gets a lighter second wet spell around September and October, so expect showers, but with more breaks than earlier in the year. Carry a rain jacket and start the upper hike early.
The easiest hiking of the year, with dry trails and firmer footing on the upper-falls climb. The trade-off is water: flow drops steadily, and from about December the Harmattan wind blows dust down from the Sahara, softening the light and hazing the views from Afadja. The falls keep running, but thinner, and the pools are shallower. November, before the Harmattan settles in, is the best of this stretch.
Between roughly December and February, the north-easterly Harmattan carries fine Saharan dust over Ghana. It doesn't close anything, but it turns skies white, flattens photographs and can hide the view from the top of Afadja entirely. If views and big water matter to you, come between August and November. If you mainly want dry trails for the upper-falls climb, the Harmattan months are workable.
Fees are the most recent cedi rates we could find (March–April 2025 visitor reports, since neither the sanctuary nor the Liati Wote office publishes a fee list), converted to US dollars at about GH₵11.5–12 per US$1, the September 2026 rate; lodge prices are the lodges' own published rates or Tripadvisor averages, and tour prices are 2026 listings on Viator and GetYourGuide.
Pay at the visitor centre in Wli Afegame and a sanctuary guide walks you 2.2 kilometres through the forest to the lower fall, pointing out the plants, butterflies and birds along the way. The path is mostly flat, with bamboo benches for a breather. At the end is a pool beneath the fall, backed by a cliff where fruit bats roost in thousands. Swim or stand in the spray, then walk back the same way. Tipping the guide is appreciated but not required.
Year-round, 8am–5pm; fullest April – October
Pay on the day — nothing to book in advance.
The hike to the taller, roughly 80-metre upper fall leaves the lower-falls trail and climbs steeply up the escarpment through the forest. It's a proper workout in the heat, so start in the morning and carry plenty of water. At the top there is a second, chilly pool and a far quieter scene than below, since most visitors stop at the lower falls. Wear shoes with real grip; sandals are a bad idea here.
Year-round; slippery and sometimes inadvisable after heavy rain
Pay on the day — nothing to book in advance.
The cliffs around the lower fall hold a colony of fruit bats in the thousands, hanging from the rock ledges above the pool in dense clusters, with more on the cliffs along the trail. Fruit bats like these are important seed dispersers in West African forests. You'll see them from the pool without any special effort, and hear them too. Keep your voice down, don't throw anything, and stand back from the rock directly under the roosts, for obvious reasons.
Year-round
No booking needed.
A short, steep guided climb through forest from Liati Wote to the summit of Afadja, on the ridge along the Togo border. It's long been sold as Ghana's highest mountain at 885 metres, a figure still used locally and by the Ghana Tourism Authority; surveys put the summit nearer 587 metres, and nearby Leklata is higher. None of that changes the view, which on a clear day reaches Lake Volta. Guided, and paid at the tourism office.
Year-round; clearest views outside the Harmattan
Pay on the day — nothing to book in advance.
From Liati Wote a guided trail leads through rainforest to Tagbo Falls, which drops in stages and finishes with a final cascade of about 60 metres into a pool you can bathe in. It combines easily with Afadja on the same morning: climb the mountain first while it's cool, then walk to the falls. Expect muddy, slippery sections in the wet season, and a much thinner fall between December and March.
Best June – October; noticeably thinner in the dry season
Pay on the day — nothing to book in advance.
For hikers who find Afadja too short, Liati Wote's guides run a longer trek on to neighbouring Mount Aduadu. It takes considerably more time than the main climb and sees far fewer hikers, and the Ghana Tourism Authority mentions an overnight option. Arrange it at the tourism office the day before if you can, and check what's included, since routes and prices are set locally.
Dry season is easiest
Pay on the day — nothing to book in advance.
About 50 kilometres south of Wli, the village of Tafi Atome shares its forest with mona monkeys that residents have long protected as sacred. A village guide takes you into the woodland, where the troops come close to visitors. It's a short, easy visit and a good add-on to the drive between Wli and Accra. Tour reviewers report that the experience varies by day, so treat it as a bonus, not a highlight.
Year-round; early morning or late afternoon
No booking needed.
If you don't want to handle tro-tros and taxis, a packaged trip covers the long drive from Accra and all the ticketing. Day one climbs Afadja and walks to the lower Wli falls, with a night in a local hotel; day two stops at Tafi Atome on the way back, with Akosombo on some versions. The drive is 5 to 6 hours each way, which some reviewers found tiring. Single-day tours on GetYourGuide list from about $229–280.
Year-round
Boti, in the Eastern Region about 17 kilometres from Koforidua, is Ghana's other well-known waterfall and makes a good stop between Accra and Wli, or a day trip on its own. About 250 concrete steps lead down to a 30-metre fall split into two streams, locally called male and female, which can merge in the rainy season. A 30-minute walk leads to Umbrella Rock, a natural overhang with valley views. Tours usually add Aburi Botanical Gardens and a cocoa farm.
Best June – September, when the twin streams can merge
Above Wli, at about 700 metres, the small hill village of Wli Todzi sits high on the escarpment close to the Togo border. The walk up through forest and farmland passes a spring and corn fields and looks back over the Hohoe plain. Villagers can host visitors overnight. Ask at your lodge or the visitor centre for a guide, and don't wander towards Togo from the top unless you already hold a Togolese visa.
Dry season is easiest
No booking needed.
About 8 kilometres north of Wli, six caves lie about 20 metres below the surface near Likpe Todome, used as a hideout by local people in wartime. Each cave can be visited separately, and a guided circular route links them, with a good view from the hill along the way. It's a useful half-day for anyone spending several nights in Wli who wants something other than waterfalls. Ask your lodge to arrange transport and a guide.
Year-round; drier months easier
No booking needed.
Wli sits almost on the border, and a small crossing near the village is the shortest road to Kpalimé in Togo. Overlanders report it working without fees, but slowly, with Ghanaian officials who need help completing forms and stamps. What catches visitors out is paperwork on the Togolese side. The UK government says British travellers must apply for a Togo e-visa at voyage.gouv.tg at least six days ahead, that there is no visa on arrival, and that a yellow fever certificate is required. Other nationalities should check the same portal. Ghana has also moved to a digital system: since 25 May 2026 visa-required visitors need an e-visa, and visa on arrival has been discontinued. For a return to Ghana you'll need valid permission to re-enter, so check the terms of your e-visa. None of the Ghana travel warnings from the US or the UK name the Volta Region.
Stay in Wli itself if you can: the village has a handful of small, friendly lodges within walking distance of the visitor centre, and Liati Wote has the area's best-known eco-lodge; Accra is for the night before and after.
A guesthouse and campsite run by Bernhard and Sabine in an 8,000-square-metre garden, with a covered terrace looking at the falls and the Afadja ridge. En-suite doubles and chalets for two to five, meals and bike hire. Book direct: the owners say agency bookings can't be guaranteed.
The most-reviewed place in Wli, with about 20 rooms, fan or air-conditioned, and a restaurant terrace facing the waterfall. Guests praise the Ghanaian cooking and breakfast; some mention separate charges for wifi and air conditioning, so ask when you book.
A small, homely bed and breakfast run by its owners, consistently among the best-rated places near the falls. Reviewers mention home-cooked meals, a lot of personal attention and practical help with onward plans, including the border crossing into Togo.
A garden eco-lodge on the edge of Liati Wote with fruit-named rooms and three chalets, air conditioning, warm water and solar backup. Meals use local produce, and the lodge is a walk from the Afadja trailhead and about an hour from Tagbo Falls.
Accra's long-established five-star on the beach, with landscaped gardens, two pools, a spa, tennis courts and four places to eat and drink. A comfortable first or last night close to the airport, before or after the long drive to the Volta Region.
A small hostel just off Osu's Oxford Street, with two air-conditioned ten-bed dorms, one for women and one for men, en-suite bathrooms, lockers and backup power. It's a sociable base for a night in Accra before catching an early bus or tro-tro east to Hohoe.
Search all Hohoe, Ghana accommodation
Ghana's main international gateway, with long-haul links to Europe, North America, the Middle East and across Africa. Wli is about 230–280 km north-east by road, 4.5 to 6 hours via Akosombo, Kpando and Hohoe.
The Volta Region's small domestic airport, around 120 km by road from Wli. Scheduled flights from Accra have been occasional and irregular, so check that anything is running before you plan around it. For most visitors, the road from Accra is simpler.
Nearly everyone flies into Accra (ACC) and travels to Wli by road, either by bus or tro-tro to Hohoe and a taxi on, or with a driver or tour.
Buses and tro-tros for Hohoe leave Accra from Tudu station and the Kpando station near CMB; STC coaches run from its Accra terminal, with online booking. Reported 2025 fares are about GH₵110–140 by tro-tro and GH₵130–200 by bus or STC (roughly $9–17), for a journey of 4.5 to 6 hours or more. From Hohoe, shared or chartered taxis cover the 17–20 km to Wli in about 20 minutes. A private car and driver from Accra runs about GH₵1,500–2,000 ($130–170) and lets you stop at Boti Falls or Tafi Atome on the way. ATMs are thin on the ground past Kpando, so carry enough cedis for fees, guides and lodges.
Ghana's e-visa and ETA system is only a few months old, and published fees and processing times have been changing. Check evisa.immigration.gov.gh directly rather than third-party sites, and if you plan to cross into Togo and come back, make sure your Ghanaian e-visa allows a second entry.
This waterfall
Wli Falls
Ghana
Height80 mWidth—
Most similar
Ekom-Nkam Falls
Cameroon
Height80 mWidth—
Also a plunge waterfall, of similar height and in Cameroon
Largest curtain
Victoria Falls
Zimbabwe · Zambia
Height108 mWidth1,708 m
Largest single sheet of falling water
Tallest on earth
Angel Falls
Venezuela
Height979 mWidth—
Widest on earth
Khone Phapheng Falls
Laos
Height21 mWidth10,783 m
Measured across the whole multi-channel system
Angel Falls is 12× taller than Wli Falls. Victoria Falls is 1.4× taller. We don't have a reliable crest width for Wli Falls yet, so it is left off the width chart. Tallest · widest lists.
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25:18
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Guidebook
Philip Briggs · 2019
Covers the Volta Region's Wli Falls hikes from Hohoe and the Eastern Region's Boti Falls and Umbrella Rock near Koforidua.
The upper fall is usually given as about 80 metres and the lower fall as roughly 60 to 65 metres. The official site and the Ghana Tourism Authority call Wli the tallest waterfall in West Africa, and it's widely accepted as Ghana's highest, but we found no survey or independent ranking behind the regional claim, so treat 'West Africa's tallest' as a local title rather than a measured fact.
Fees reported in March 2025 were GH₵60 (about $5) for non-Ghanaians and GH₵25 for Ghanaians to walk to the lower falls, and GH₵80–90 (about $7–8) for non-Ghanaians on the guided upper-falls hike. A sanctuary guide is included in the fee, and tips are optional. Fees are set in cedis and can change, so bring some extra cash.
Allow three to four hours for the round trip from the visitor centre, and up to five if you're slow on steep ground. The official site rates it medium, with a longer, steeper variant; the Waterfall Lodge describes about four hours. The climb up the escarpment is the hard part. Start in the morning, carry water, and skip it after heavy rain.
Yes. There's a pool at the base of the lower fall where visitors wade and swim, and another at the upper fall. The water is cool and the rocks slippery, so wear something with grip. In the peak of the rainy season the force at the base is much stronger, so ask your guide how close it's sensible to go.
Take an STC coach or a tro-tro to Hohoe from Tudu or the Kpando station, 4.5 to 6 hours or more for about GH₵110–200 (reported 2025), then a taxi for the 20 minutes to Wli. A private car and driver runs about GH₵1,500–2,000 and lets you stop at Boti Falls or Tafi Atome. Organised two-day tours from Accra cost from about $370.
Probably not. The Ghana Tourism Authority and most guides still give 885 metres and call it the highest peak, but surveyed elevation data put the summit nearer 587 metres, and nearby Leklata, about 4.6 km to the east, is higher. It's still a fine, short climb, with views to Lake Volta on a clear day.
Yes, there is a small border post near Wli that overlanders use as the shortest route to Kpalimé. You need a Togolese e-visa arranged in advance through voyage.gouv.tg: the UK government says to apply at least six days before arrival and that there is no visa on arrival. You'll also need a yellow fever certificate, and valid permission to re-enter Ghana if you're coming back.
August to October is the best balance: the falls are full after months of rain, and showers are usually lighter than in the main wet season. April to July brings the most rain and the slipperiest upper trail. November is good for dry trails, and from December to March the Harmattan haze and lower flow make the falls less impressive.
Wli Falls is in Ghana (Volta Region), inside Agumatsa Wildlife Sanctuary. The nearest base is Wli and the closest airport is ACC. Its coordinates are 7.1058, 0.6085.
Prices, fees and entry rules change. We re-check full guides regularly; spotted something out of date? Tell us.
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